You stand on the beach and taste the salty smell of the wind that comes from the ocean.
And inside you feel the warmth of never ending freedom,
And on your lips the bitter, tear-soaked kiss of your lover.
– I have never been to the ocean.
– That can't be true! You have never-ever been to the ocean?
– Never-ever!
– Both of us are knocking on heavens door, drinking tequila, we are biting-the-dust experts and you have never-ever been to the ocean!
– Never-ever!
– Don't you know how it is when you arrive in heaven? The ocean – in heaven that's all they talk about. And the sunset, how fucking wonderful it is to watch that big ball of fire melting to the ocean. And you – you can't talk about it with them, since you have never been there! You will be a fucking outsider up there!
from "Knockin' on Heaven's Door"
I have no idea how it sounds originally in German, but those, who know Russian, won’t deny, that it sounds more beautiful in it, than in English… Americans have oceans, so probably in American heaven they talk about ocean, not sea... And if you know the movie, you probably also know that it was Baltic Sea they were going to.
What’s so special about the sea? It’s just a huge amount of water with no people there. That’s right – “no people there”, that’s what is so special about it! Sea is like Christmas presents, which gives you those seconds of anticipation and a smile, which no doubt appears on your face in the moment you see it.
For me, all the places I have visited, where I could see the open sea, were special. I haven’t seen a lot of them and I can’t choose one I love most of all. It’s 300km from home to the Baltic Sea, and it’s impossible to imagine it without childhood holidays place Šventoji, usual Baltic weather – “shaking in the morning, swinging in the evening”, sighing pines, white dunes and chocolate ice-cream. I’ve also seen Mediterranean Sea from Spanish, Turkish and Israel coasts, and it always comes with a lot of sun in the first place, and my favorite food in all other places. And I also had a chance to see the sunrise in front of the Dead Sea.
My temporal home country borders both the Baltic and the North Sea. First time I went to the North Sea in the middle of August, second – in the beginning of October. Less than 2 months between the first and the second time, but both completely different and unforgettable.
It is possible to see the open North Sea from Esbjerg, but if you will be there you must take the ferry to Fanø island! A Round-trip costs DKK40 (about 5 €), takes 12min and departs every 20min.
In August we took a bus to get to the beach – perhaps it was a clever idea… The bus itself goes on the beach, what seems strange, but it makes sense, when you realize how huge those beaches are. The sea is not deep and will remind you Baltic Sea in Lithuania – just here, if you will try to swim a little, you will walk to England instead of Sweden…
The other thing which may bother you will be jellyfish. A lot of them on the beach and in the sea, and no one know, what they are thinking of… So basically in August I and my Askov friends had a very sunny and truly lazy day on one of Fanø beaches.
But not in October. In October I went there with Sina, and believe me – it is impossible to use word “lazy” and Sina’s name in one sentence… After feeding deers and walking to the “Man Meets the Sea” in Esbjerg we took a ferry to Fanø. The weather wasn’t promising from the early morning, but it wasn’t raining yet. There was no bus, but we weren’t looking for it.
People from the ferry disappeared and without much thinking we went towards 3 windmills in the North of the island. First hour went quite fast and we considered that we are not that far from the sea. After some time it became clear that those peaceful windmills perhaps are not that peaceful and you are not allowed to go close to them… So straight way to the sea slowly became a zigzag and no people around was a very “promising” sign as well. We crossed the forest, crossed weald and finally we saw… no, not the sea!
We saw the dunes! And usually it’s a good sign, but not in Fanø, here it meant nothing.
And when we almost reached them another problem occurred – to reach those “promising” dunes we had to cross the stream… It was impossible to jump and the only idea I came up with was to take off our shoos and walk through it, cause I was sure we will get to the sea in any minute and will be able to wash our legs there. Barefoot walk in October was the only option we had until Sina noticed a metal balk about hundred metres away from us. And we reached those dunes, unfortunately there was no sea beyond them. There was literally nothing beyond them… It looked like a desert.
We noticed a “little” ship, what probably was one of those Esbjerg – Harwich ferries with over 600 people on board… It looked like it goes through the sand, but even if now everything looked possible here, that was not possible! The sea should have been somewhere there! After 2 hours walk to the “desert” we started walking on it. And than we realized it wasn’t a desert, and it wasn’t a beach, it was the bottom of the North Sea… I bet you heard about ebb-tide phenomenon, but have you seen it?!
We were going towards the point, where we’ve seen the ship, but after some time we noticed the buoy, lying on the ground… Are they suppose to lie on the ground? Next question we came up with was “How fast the water comes back?” following with “Is it safe to go there?”. And we turned… After more than 2h walking we haven’t reached the sea… We went along the sea, or better to say along the horizon over which the sea probably was.
Finally somewhere more to the South of the island we reached the sea, than walked 5km more to the ferry during the rain, which finally started, and came back to Esbjerg.
We weren’t expecting to see anything like this. Actually, I never thought that something like this exist at all. But, choosing wrong direction sometimes can turn to a very good surprise... You never know what you will see when you come closer to the sea.